Final Hair Design Ideas

I designed several hairstyles for my final design and then took the best elements from each of them to create my final look.

Modern Elizabethan Hair Practices

Elizabethan Hair

Plaits were popular in Elizabethan times and they were often used to make intricate designs to place over padding or around hair accessories. 

 The hair was often high at the front of Elizabethan hairstyles to show the forehead off as much as possible and also it looked very grand and showed a high social status.

Heart shapes were very popular in Elizabethan hairstyles and the shape framed the face. Padding was often used to create this and then the hair would be curled or crimped on top of it.

Crimping and frizzing were very popular and were used in many Elizabethan hair styles to add volume and decoration to the hair. Buns were also very popular and were often low at the back of the head.

I tried a few different techniques and designs to use for my final look and in the end decided to use plaiting, crimping, padding, curling and a bun to create my final modern Elizabethan.

Padding

Padding/Rats

You will need:

Paddle brush

Pintail comb

Sectioning clips

Padding/rats

Hair grips

Hair pins

Curlers

Crimpers

Method:

Section off the hair at the front of the head that will be going over the padding.

Curl two or three rows of curls or crimp the hair depending on what finish you want to have over the padding.

Do a plait in the hair horizontally over the area where the padding/rat will sit so that the padding has a base to be secured to.

Place the padding over the plait and secure using grips and pins.

Wrap the crimped or curled hair over the padding and secure with grips. You can first wrap hair from behind the padding to cover it if there is not enough in front of it to cover.

Then place the curls over the rest of the hair to decorate the padding and secure with grips .

If you are doing a heart shaped padding then do two plaits for two lots of padding to be secured to.

At first I found padding very difficult especially as my model had lots of short layers in her hair. However I found that if I used strong backcombing and plenty of grips it stayed in place a lot better.

Round shaped padding was very popular in Elizabethan times and also high hair with lots of volume was very popular.

http://nttreasurehunt.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/ntiii_nost_960230_large.jpg

Heart shaped padding at the front of the head was very popular.
http://www.blackworkarchives.com/art/ElizabethBrydges_lg.jpg

The height, shape and texture of this hair in Elizabethan in style.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/83/5e/75/835e75d8e1e81ee4e79aa470084e9553.jpg

This design has Elizabethan influences in the heart shape of the padding and the tight plaits going from the hair line to the padding.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/59/58/32/595832ed384118b32e9e6cbff473a6e7.jpg

Curling, Crimping and Frizzing

Curling, crimping and frizzing

Curling

Products and tools:

-Pintail comb

-Sectioning clips

-Curling tongs

-Kirby grips

Method for small tight Elizabethan style curls:

-If you are doing a full head of curls then section the hair so that only the hair at the nape of the neck is free.

-Take a small square section of hair using a pintail comb if needed.

-Wrap the end twice into the tong, close tong and wrap the hair up to the root keeping the tong straight and upright so that at the end in is flat against the scalp. Make sure you wrap the hair around the tong in the same direction as the ends of the hair went into the tong otherwise the hair will have flicks in at the ends.

-If you are not confident with having the tongs close to the scalp put the comb between the tong and the scalp to create a barrier.

- For Elizabethan curls tongs are usually better than wands as curls using wands can look too modern.

-Hold the tong in the hair for up to 12 seconds depending on the condition of the hair. If the hair is weak and very damaged then hold in place for a shorter time.

- The hair on our dolls head can withstand the 25 heat setting, very damaged hair on a person should use about 15 heat setting and other hair types a heat setting between the two.

- Release the pressure on the tong so that the hair is released, turn the tong back on itself once or twice, wiggle the tong slightly and move it down towards the end of the curl so the hair comes out from the tong.

-The curl should stay close to the scalp, if it is going to drop secure it in place with a Kirby grip, this is more likely to happen with long hair.

-Leave it to cool and set in place, do not move the hair whilst it is still warm as you may ruin the curl and it will not hold the curl for as long.

-Curl the rest of the hair in that section and then move the sectioning clips so you can curl the rest of the hair. The curls that are next to each other should go in alternate directions in order for them to look as good as possible. At the front of the hair the curls on either side of the face should go the same way to create symmetry. Curl the hair forwards at the hair line to create an Elizabethan look, curling the hair backwards at the face is a more modern look.

-The hair at the top of the head can be curled by holding the hair straight above the head instead of down by the neck, if you want the curls to sit directly on top of the head.

-When the curls are cool take out any Kirby grips and move the hair to create your desired style.

I found curling very difficult at first as I struggled with angling the curls and curling them the correct way but after practising I have improved and so will continue to practice.

Curls were used to frame the sides of the face and to decorate the tops of the head.
http://hoocher.com/Portraits_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England/Elizabeth_I_of_England_Header.jpg

If curls are used in buns totady they are normally for decoration.

http://media-cache-cd0.pinimg.com/736x/af/47/82/af47826368701abcf55794dee6a2af65.jpg

Elizabethas used tight curls in many of their hairstyles
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2X2UHjMN483RLl9xs5vDDlNMv3Pp-h_MhxfLTlqQdQKrqle7wZbr_lZC3C3YWEt2GdMnwSo7PcCcXq8GnHmJWuoMe9ut58rPx5_mIJC0QMDKhJ9DAjxIJU8l5rsV0bbD3NuufoPZaFQ/s1600/Elizabeth-I-of-England-kings-and-queens-2712095-1024-768.jpeg

Contemporary curls are often loose and used mostly when the hair is hanging down.

http://www.curlformers.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/good-prom-hairstyles-for-long-hair-134.jpg

 Crimping and Frizzing

Products and tools:

Crimpers

Pintail comb

Sectioning clips

Method:

-Start by sectioning the hair so that you can start crimping the hair at the nape of the neck.

-Comb the section on hair using a pintail comb.

-Get a section of hair making sure it is not wider than the length of the crimpers.

-Hold the hair straight and press the crimpers down to the roots of the hair.

-hold the crimpers in place for a few seconds, release the pressure on the crimpers, move down the hair shaft and crimp the hair below.

-Repeat this until you have reached the end of the hair making sure the hair blow the crimpers stays straight so that the crimping is even.

-Repeat the process on all of the hair you want to crimp.

-When the hair has cooled down you can use your finger, a comb or a brush to brush out the crimping and create a frizzing effect. Usually starting at the bottom of the hair shaft and working up to the roots is the easiest way to complete frizzing without pulling on the hair too much.

Alternative frizzing method/figure of 8 method

Products and tools:

Pintail comb

Sectioning clips

Hair straighteners

Hair pins/ geisha pins

Kirby grips

Method:

-Section the hair using a pintail comb and sectioning clips.

- Take a small section and place the hair in the middle of a pin.

-Wrap the hair tightly around the pin in a figure of eight pattern.

-Continue to do this until you get to the ends of the hair.

-If the ends of the hair are too thin to do a figure of eight, wrap them straight around the pin.

-Use a Kirby grip across the pin to secure the hair to the pin.

-Hold the hair straighteners at the top of the pin for about 5 seconds, release the straighteners and move down the pin until all of the hair has been heated.

-Repeat this on all of the hair you want to use.

-When the hair has cooled down and set, remove the grips and pins.

-The hair will be in a zig zag shape.

-If you want the hair to be frizzed them tease the hair out of shape using your fingers, a comb or a brush.

Crimping and frizzing creates a lot of texture in the hair which is good to make a strong base for hair pieces, hats and props e.g. crowns. It also provides volume to go under decorative curls which can be laid on top of crimping and frizzing. I have found crimping and frizzing helps to make my hair designs secure and gives a nice texture to the hair as well.

Frizzing techniques were used to create height and texture in the hair.
http://nttreasurehunt.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/nti_ntth_1975_26_large.jpg

The rounded shape of the hair and the crimped effect make this look Elizabethan and the messy texture give it a contemporary twist.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdiVxhUv6N98VghxTxflUpkkIr5dnMk9aNvbWggPMJgNFgyLSyESUBX1fmhAUNeqgEGiIef5vHDnPHmO2HWqfoiAqXPDKdcsUMQgWamYkwL_uZXMUoRsJxgIj2iHoadZVds1I9DLPM3vvz/s320/hair+hair+hair.jpg

Frizzing was used to create a base for hair decorations to be attatched to.
http://pics.livejournal.com/woodsholme/pic/0000s2g7

This design had an Elizabethan heart shape and frizzing texture but the heart shape being further back and the frizzing being messy make it look more contemporary.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijeGO6yid0_MagDaV6FdKu2jdADJV4wlHnuD1EJul7Az_vUPA-BxRs-xyThJV66b1Qb2TPpJQW4mO8ke3UrCPDVmMnXhPJ4NPY9PFAF1x5uv_X_VN_PmFFLADlUv75s63qATKWTduGALvb/s640/22.jpg

Plaiting and Buns

Plaiting and Buns

Normal Plait

Products and tools:

Paddle brush

Pintail comb

Hairbands

Method:

-Brush the hair using a paddle brush.

-Separate the hair you want to plait into three equal sections using a pintail comb.

-Take one of the outside sections and place it over the middle section so that it is now the middle section of hair.

-Take the outside section from the opposite side and place over the middle section so that it is the new middle section.

-Repeat this until you reach the end of the hair and use a hairband to hold the end of the plait in place.

The horizontal plaiting across the forehead is a modern design but the way the intricate part of the hairstyle goes into a bun at the back and then also the centre parting remind me of Elizabethan hair. The small sections of hair coming across the face are like modern day tendrels although in Elizabethan times they would have been thicker.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8LBc7AlmkQtc5hZMl295nkTdCdrxmp9cpfM09dwHxeZmKozLRyX2MeTMzIzVBqqHzK5Ps7ARJlfK4DR5iZuFnKD7AZAGR-_Upgn9a87u89qP1eaxAcupwqqElNN8ziu3JFLK5gvPrj3Y/s1600/Messy+braid+hair+bun.jpg

French plait

Products and tools:

Paddle brush

Pintail comb

Hairband

Method:

-Brush the hair using a paddle brush.

-Take a small section of hair from the top of the head or where ever you want the plait to start and split it into three equal sections using a pintail comb.

-Cross one outside section over the middle section and then the other outside section over the new middle section like you would if starting a normal plait.

-Then take the other outside section and place  it over the middle section but this time take a small section of hair that is not in the plait already from the same side as the outside section and add it to the section so that they join together to create the new middle section.

-Repeat this adding hair to alternate outside sections of hair until the plait reaches the bottom of the scalp.

-Then do a normal plait until you reach the end of the hair and secure with a hairband.

This design uses a modern french plait but the heart shape that has been created reminds me of Elizabethan hair shapes.

http://cdnpix.com/show/imgs/57f9be3f51738104d30cf545e09c1702.jpg

In these plaits the finish is very sleek and smooth which is popular in modern day however the shapes look similar to lace work and weaving which were popular in Elizabethan times. 

https://mysacredbeauty.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/maxresdefault.jpg

I like the intricacy of this design and the shaping with the hair crossing over looks almost like ribbons and is a similar shape to some Elizabethan hair accessories.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/ae/6d/ce/ae6dce8f57b8464d9c89c5e7d329681e.jpg

Fishtail plait

Products and tools:

Hairbands

Paddle Brush

Pintail comb

Method:

-Brush the hair using a paddle brush.

-A hairband can be used to put the hair into a ponytail and then cut when you have finished the plait if you find this easier when first attempting a fishtail plait.

-Split the hair into two equal sections using a pintail comb.

-Take a small section of hair from the outside of one of the sections, place it over the section of hair it came from and into the middle of the other section of hair.

-Then take a small section of hair from the outside of the other section and place over the section it came from and into the middle of the other section of hair.

-Don’t hold the hair too tightly as fishtail plaits don’t look as good it they are tight.

-Repeat this until all of the hair has been plaited and secure the end of the hair using a hairband.

Plaiting has been one of my favourite techniques to learn as I have wanted to know how to create intricate plaits for a while and now I feel that I am able to create good plaits myself.

The way this design has one element of the hair going into another- the fishtail plait going into a bun is similar to Elizabethan when they would have curles or frizzing going into a bun.

http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RYjM4qxIlgo/maxresdefault.jpg

The heart shape at the front is typical of Elizabethan hair and the detail at the hair line is very simial to the shapes of fishtail plaits.
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ElizabethAustria.jpg

Bun

Products and tools:

Paddle brush

Pintail comb

Hairbands

Kirby grips

Hair pins

Wax

Hairspray

Method:

-Brush the hair you want to be in the bun using a large paddle brush into a ponytail making sure the hair lies flat and smooth against the scalp using a pintail comb.

-Secure the ponytail using a hairband and brush the hair using the pintail comb or paddle brush. You may have to use two hair bands if the hair is thick or not secure enough after using one.

-Split the ponytail into four equal sections using the pintail comb so that there is a front, back and two side sections.

-Take the front section and backcomb the side closest to the face from the roots to midlengths. The side you do the backcombing from is the one that will not be visible when you curl the hair over.

-Smooth the other side of the section using the pintail comb and barrel roll the hair.

-Secure the barrel roll to the scalp using two Kirby grips, one on either side going towards the centre of the roll. If the hair is very thick you may need to use more grips and even place grips into the hairband.

-Complete the same process with the two side sections and back section making sure the barrel rolls are the same height and distance from the centre of the ponytail. Also leave a small gap between the barrel rolls so that you can secure them into a good shape and then spread them out.

-Use large hair pins to move the hair from the outsides of the barrel rolls to fill in the gaps and secure the hair with the pins at the bottom of the bun going into the hairbands. When placing the pins into the hair make sure the two prongs at the end of the pins are close together otherwise they will slide out of the hair easily.

- You can then use a small amount of wax or hairspray to give the bun and the outside of the bun a smooth and sleek finish.

At first creating an even round shape in the bun was challenging but once I understood how to section the ponytail and back comb properly this became a bit easier.

The heart shape, volume and bun in this plait are very Elizabethan style and so is the texture, although the messy style is modern as in Elizabethan times the styles were very structured.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22FE6qX09As9dnvzwFGfeQTGCFSNdJ2XaASP0tDrqEVh21QbRDn3dI4F24xdVpjWLrTuNzf_s6TPFiZ4P4hwtjPBw8fl4W3CFw_g78Xe7AaZKuqoOVzeMRFcCft1vuo37Ju0lFfAZJ4DM/s400/tumblr_kpjyqyvqE31qzm64no1_400_large.jpg

The back of this hair looks like its in a bun under the head dress the shapes of Elizabethan buns were often more horizontal where as today they are more rounded in shape.
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ElenoraToledo.jpg

In these photography I combined different techniques I had learnt to develop a modern hair design with Elizabethan influences.

Decorative plaits and buns

-Ribbons, pearls and jewels can be added to plaits and buns to make them more unique.

-Ribbons and pearls can be added to plaits by fastening them into the top of a plait using small clips or grips under the surface of the hair. Then place the ribbon/ribbons into a section/sections of hair and complete the plait as you would do normally. Alternatively you can use a needle to thread the ribbon through a plait after it has been completed.

-Decorations can also be added to buns by securing them into the ponytail and placing them into a section of hair after it has been backcombed and smoothed. Also decorations can be stuck onto the outside of the bun after it has been completed.

-Jewels and beads can be fastened into the hair using thread, glue, clips and grips depending on the type of fastenings that are already on the jewels and beads.

The ribbon work and the way the hair is scraped back from the forehead are Elizabethan style as is the purple ribbon colour and the halo plait is a very modern style of plait.
http://redroguesalon.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/braidribbon.jpg

Elizabethans used a lot of decorations in their hair such as ribbon, pearls and jewels.
http://www.tate.org.uk/art/images/work/T/T07/T07699_10.jpg